Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these narratives and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
